Vendor Spotlight: IRP Germany Performance Parts for your Track BMW

If you plan on driving your BMW at a track event, for an Auto-X, or competitively at all, the importance of setting up your car to handle the extra stress is critical. IRP Germany produces some of the best driveline components to help stiffen your BMW for performance use with high-quality mounts, flex discs, control arms, solid shifters, and more.

For keeping the camber angles of your BMW within optimal ranges on lowered vehicles, you need adjustable camber arms. IRP Germany Adjustable Rear Control Arms mitigate camber issues caused by excessively lowering your BMW and bring the contact patch back to its most effective size. The durable stainless steel construction assures enthusiasts that their new parts will last and provide an increase in rigidity while still being relatively lightweight. Finally, the monoball bearing used in place of BMW’s factory rubber bushing eliminates deflection and helps maintain proper suspension settings under hard driving.

Solid or polyurethane drivetrain mounts, like IRP Germany’s engine and transmission mounts, keep your driveline from excessively moving and deflecting. The reduced movement and increased rigidity provide a better transmission of torque to the wheels and keep everything in line where it should be. Stiffer or solid mounts are also necessary should you want a direct shifter rather than the factory indirect style.

IRP Germany produces a Solid Short Shift Kit, which is one of the best available universal direct short shifters. The kit features a reverse lockout, smaller shift gate, and bolts directly to the transmission tunnel. This gives you more precise shifts with a shorter throw but a tall enough lever to reduce the amount of time your hand spends off of the steering wheel.

They also offer a range of upgraded solid and polyurethane components like their performance guibo (flex disc,) adjustable front and rear strut bars, polyurethane rear shock mounts, and aluminum subframe bushings. This helps improve rigidity all around the vehicle to reduce torque losses through deflection you would otherwise experience with soft rubber bushings and mounts.

Finally, IRP Germany is one of few producers with a direct swap Performance Steering Lock Out Kit for dramatically increasing your suspension adjustment capabilities and steering angle. These kits increase the length of the control arms with sturdier replacements. These durable control arms are significantly lighter and give you more control over your suspension settings.

If you are just out to have fun on an open track day or looking to compete for top times in your BMW, IRP Germany provides nearly everything you need to help cut those precious few milliseconds off your lap times.

Interested in purchasing?

IRP Germany Performance Products

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ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake and Turbo Back Exhaust for your VW MK5 GTI

One of the best ways to add power and enjoyment to your VW MK5 GTI is to add a performance intake and exhaust. When used with software tuning, your MK5 GTI can pick up considerable horsepower and torque while also providing a satisfying increase in noise. There are quite a few options for intakes and exhaust on the market, but we think our Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake and 3” Valved Turbo Back Exhaust are the best options for gaining power, performance and makes driving a pleasure.

The bigger of the two jobs is the exhaust installation. Exhaust increases the rate of flow for expelled waste gas and provides a throaty sound more fitting of a performance vehicle. A major drawback of aftermarket performance exhaust is that the increased volume can sometimes be obnoxious or too conspicuous.The stainless steel construction makes our aftermarket exhaust a lightweight system compared to stock, like most aftermarket exhaust, but ours has one critical difference. Our 3” turbo-back valved system allows you to flip a switch to have power and noise or switch back to a comfort and stealth mode to quiet things down.

The ECS Swivel Tips included in this kit allows you to perfectly set the angle of your muffler tips and is available in chrome or black to suit your preferences. The attractiveness, sound, performance, and adjustability make this comprehensive kit an awesome upgrade for your MK5 GTI.

Next, no stranger to this blog is our Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake System. The carbon fiber intake box, attractive intake tubing, and high-flow filter adds a tasteful look to your engine bay while improving the performance. The induction noise alone is a worthy benefit, but our system does more than just sound excellent. Our countless hours of research and development resulted in a system that not only looks good, but adds an impressive 17whp and 12Ft-Lbs of torque over the stock system with a tune and our turbo-back exhaust!

We are enormously proud of our dedicated hours of engineering and designing that have allowed us to bring quite possibly the highest performing, most attractive, and cost-effective aftermarket upgrades. Our intake and exhaust give you a more enjoyable driving experience and are perfect DIY’s to knock out in a weekend. We have installation documents you can read to make sure you get the job done like a professional so you can feel confident your new upgrades will install quickly and easily. Add power and performance to your VW MK5 GTI with ECS Performance Upgrades!

Interested in purchasing?

Grab your ECS Valved Turbo Back Exhaust and Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake Here!

Kohlefaser Luft Technik Intake

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ECS Valved Turbo Back Exhaust

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Best Mods for the BMW E36 3 – Series 1991-1999

If you have a BMW E36, you most likely have already begun to modify it in some way. The E36, which was produced from 1991 through 1999, was the successor to the highly-praised E30 chassis. The E36 featured a range of engines; the most desirable in America being the M5x line or the S5x line. The six-cylinder inline engines have been popularized by their steady power bands, high potential for modification, and incredibly balanced performance. We have devised a list of the best modifications you can make to get the most out of your E36.

Software

If you haven’t already, taking full advantage of your engine’s potential is as easy as a plug-and-play software chip for your ECU. The Shark Injector Performance Software is designed to raise the rev limit, improve throttle response, remove the top speed governor, and improve the overall power output. If you have a stock vehicle or if you have hotter cams and an M50 OBD1 manifold you can select an appropriate software tune to maximize the output of your engine.

Brakes

We highly suggest addressing the brakes on your E36, especially if you just purchased the vehicle. Our Performance Front and Rear Brake Service Kits adapts your E36 brakes to the floating 2-piece rotors and calipers found on the CSL E46 M3. These lighter weight rotors significantly reduce unsprung weight on each corner, which adds to the handling ability of your E36, while greatly improving your ability to stop effectively. Remember, more power means you need more stopping power, but you don’t have to spend an arm and a leg to give your E36 beefier brakes.

Intake

The best way to make the most out of your Shark Injector Software is to equip your E36 with a high-flow performance cold air intake and switch your OBD2 Intake Manifold for the OBD1 version, which improves torque and horsepower dramatically. Both the addition of the OBD1 Manifold and the Cold Air Intake are taken into account with a specific tune and allow you to achieve the most reliable and consistent power from your modifications. The overall horsepower gains can be upwards of 30HP to the crank, so these are definitely highly suggested and inexpensive ways to improve your power drastically. We carry a range of intakes on the site as well as offering OEM manifolds and gaskets to ensure you are receiving the highest quality parts. DINAN has been the preferred choice by many to improve the induction capabilities of their BMW and bring years of excellence to the BMW tuning community.

Wheels

The biggest visual difference that can completely change the profile and stance of your E36. Our own Alzor Wheels brand offers several BMW fitments for improving the visual appearance of your BMW and lowering unsprung weight. With myriad styles, sizes, and offsets, Alzor Wheels offer a great upgrade to your car’s aesthetics while being relatively inexpensive. Alternatively, Apex Wheels are known for their dedication to providing lightweight and trackable wheels specifically designed for BMWs. The incredibly popular Apex ARC8 wheels are featured on many track and street BMWs and have been dubbed as one of the best wheel choices around to improve your BMW.

Exhaust

Without going into a full exhaust setup that can get incredibly pricey, the best way to gain some power and increase the volume of your engine is to equip a cat-back exhaust. UUC, a premier BMW performance company, offers a stainless, true-dual, lightweight dual exhaust that is 2.38 inches in diameter as opposed to the smaller diameter factory exhaust. This eliminates back pressure and allows the exhaust gas to be expelled more quickly, which increases your performance slightly. Paired with software tuning and supporting modifications, you can expect noticeable power gains and a throaty growl to put a smile on your face at any RPM. The System U Exhaust runs from the midsection all the way to the exhaust tips and includes a muffler that mounts identically to your factory exhaust to provide the easiest and most secure fitment.

Take-Aways

With the above modifications to your E36 complete, you can expect dramatic increases in both power and driving pleasure while enjoying a unique look with the aftermarket wheels and a more enjoyable exhaust note thanks to that UUC cat-back. The lighter weight components help increase what the performance gains will actually do for your acceleration, and the lower unsprung weight from the improved brakes will improve your cornering ability noticeably. Make sure to grab all this and more right here at ECS to build the perfect E36 for the street or track!

Interested in our other products for your BMW E36 3-Series? Shop by car here!

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Spotlight: The ECS Tuning BMW E92 335i Project Car Exposed

In an effort ensure proper fitment and function of parts, ECS owns several vehicles that see constant attention as parts are designed, tested, replaced, and tweaked. We use these cars for more than just testing function and fitment, however. They are maintained as running and driving examples of our products. Among the host of ECS Tuning cars sits our BMW collection, which includes one of the more popular cars among enthusiasts. Showcasing some of the best BMW and ECS have to offer is our 2007 E92 335i.

This E92 is equipped with the love-it-or-hate-it BMW N54 Twin Turbo straight six. These famous engines put down some serious power from the factory. They are incredibly popular with tuners for their potential to easily make impressive horsepower and torque figures with simple software tuning and bolt-on modifications. While the N54 is known for a host of issues which plague the car, ECS produces or provides everything an owner would need to keep the finicky performance engine completely flawless.

While maintenance on these cars should be a concern, the raw power, evocative appearance, and endless list of aftermarket parts available completely overshadow any hesitations in the mind of anyone who sits behind the wheel. Our E92 has been modified extensively, and it shows. The BMW benefits from several performance upgrades hidden away in the tightly packed engine bay and peeking out from behind the massive Apex wheels tucked under the fenders.

Under the hood, the ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik intake System allows the engine to breathe more freely and pairs well with the always popular COBB Tuning Accessport. The intakes by themselves add a powerful induction noise and give a more refined look to the top side of your engine, but alone provide minimal power improvements. With the AP, Turner Motorsport N54 Downpipes and Milltek Performance Exhaust, the power increase is much more dramatic.

The Turner Motorsport N54 Downpipes and High Flow Catalytic Converters open up the rate of flow from the hot side of the turbos and provide the distinctive resonant rumble and spool noise that always puts a smile on the face of whoever may be sitting in the cockpit. With the impressive power numbers from the downpipes, exhaust, and intakes, it becomes quite clear why the N54 is such a popular choice for tuners.

What is power without an ability to control it, though? Dropping the car closer to the ground are BILSTEIN B16 PSS10 Coilovers which provide a stiff and planted ride without being overly harsh. These coilovers are the ultimate in race-inspired technology from the folks at BILSTEIN. Extensively ride-tested to perfect the ability to provide competitive settings as well as comfortable daily driving rebound and compression, these coilovers provide the best ride height and 10-way adjustable settings for dialing in the right feel for your driving needs.

Keeping the suspension geometry just right with the lower center of gravity is just a matter of compensating with Turner Motorsport Front Adjustable Race Camber/Caster Plates. With these plates the E92 benefits from a wider range of adjustment settings, which allows for a more precise alignment and accounts for the BILSTEIN coilovers. Beyond the adjustability, these plates are also significantly sturdier than the factory strut mounts they replace, as they feature spherical bearings that eliminate deflection found in their OEM counterparts.

Finally, rounding out the performance modifications, admirers will notice the striking orange massive 6-Piston Big Brakes found on the F30 sticking out from behind the Apex wheels adorning each corner. Our specific kit shaves the rear brake calipers and allows the E92 to take advantage of the superior stopping power seen on its newest younger brother.

 

While the power output and handling capabilities are incredibly important to address, what would our E92 be without some improvements to the overall look of the car? The E92 335i is a fairly muted car: aside from its twin exhaust tips, very little identifies it as housing arguably one of the most serious performance power plants ever fitted in a production car. ECS changed that understated exterior with subtle compliments. Found up front, the ECS Carbon Fiber Front Lip nearly kisses the ground and adds a hint of aggressive styling to the E92’s face. Around back, our CSL-Style Carbon Fiber Trunk Lid accentuates the lines of the trunk with an iconic ducktail.

With these bolt-on modifications, our E92 is a fairly reserved example of what can be made from this incredible platform. Our BMW lineup would not be complete without the iconic E92 335i taking its rightful place in our company builds. With a host of in-house products and partnered companies who produce excellent products, we have everything you might need to create an engaging car to drive or even turn your N54 into a dedicated race car!

DIY: ECS Performance Lightweight Power Steering Pulley

Installing an ECS Tuning Performance Power Steering Pulley is an afternoon project that can be completed with relative ease. It rewards you with

the performance and dependability of our meticulously engineered products, and it is an excellent opportunity to replace worn drive belts at the

same time. Before you begin, read and familiarize yourself with these instructions and make sure you have all the required tools on hand. Thank

you for purchasing our ECS Tuning Performance Power Steering Pulley. We appreciate your business!

Inspect your serpentine and air conditioning belts before beginning this installation (see page 11 step 10). If they need to be replaced, be

sure to order them so you have everything you need to complete the job. Belts for your application are available at ecstuning.com.

Step 1:

Safely lift and support your vehicle and remove any lower insulation panels or

skid plates that are installed on your car.

Begin by loosening the three bolts (arrows) on the original power steering

pulley using a 13mm socket. Do not remove the bolts at this time.

Leaving the belt on for this step will help hold the pulley to keep it from

turning while loosening the bolts. If it does slip a little, you will be able to

hold it with your hand as needed to loosen the bolts.

Step 2:

Using a small flat blade screwdriver, pry off the dust cap on the serpentine

belt tensioner pulley.

Step 3:

Engage the center bolt of the serpentine belt tensioner pulley using the

appropriate socket (see note below) on the end of a long handle 3/8” ratchet

or breaker bar.

Depending on model year and engine, the center bolt of the tensioner

will require either a 3/8 drive 16mm shallow socket or an 8mm Allen

socket.

Step 4:

Push the ratchet towards the passenger side of the car, which will cause the

tensioner to swing downwards, loosening the tension on the belt. As soon

as there is enough slack in the belt, lift it off the power steering pulley, then

slowly allow the tensioner to swing back up to its rest position. Position the

belt out of the way above the power steering pulley.

Step 5:

Remove the three power steering pulley bolts (loosened in step one).

Step 6:

Remove the original pulley from the power steering pump.

If the pulley is stuck due to rust build up on the pulley hub, use a small

amount of penetrating oil and gently lever between the pulley and the

power steering pump to loosen and remove it.

Step 7:

Clean the rust and corrosion buildup from the pulley hub using a small piece

of sandpaper or emery cloth.

This is very important even if the original pulley was not rusted or stuck.

The new ECS Tuning pulley has a tighter tolerance and the hub must be

clean to prevent damage or distortion when tightening the bolts.

Step 8:

Apply a thin layer of grease to the pulley hub. This will allow for easier

installation and provide protection from corrosion between the hub and the

new pulley.

Step 9:

Install the new ECS Tuning Power Steering Pulley onto the pump and thread

all three bolts by hand until they are fully seated.

The pulley should easily slip all the way onto the hub, allowing for easy

installation of the bolts. If the pulley is difficult to install in any way, remove

it and check for rust or corrosion on the hub (see step seven).

Step 10:

Before proceeding read the following serpentine belt information:

Worn Belt (L) and New Belt (R)

• If your new power steering pulley is an underdrive pulley, a shorter belt may

be required. Check the specific belt requirements at ecstuning.com and see

 “Serpentine Belt Replacement”.

 

• If your new pulley is a standard drive pulley, closely check the condition of

your serpentine belt both visually and with a belt wear tester (ES#2642871).

Any cracks or wear on the ribs of the belt mean it should be replaced. For

replacement see “Serpentine Belt Replacement”.

If you are re-using the existing belt, continue with step 11.

 

Step 11:

Using the same method as used when removing the belt, swing the

serpentine belt tensioner downwards until there is enough slack in the

serpentine belt to loop it over the power steering pulley. Make sure the belt is

properly lined up on all the pulleys then allow the tensioner to swing back up

to tighten the belt.

Use a trouble light or flashlight to inspect the belt positioning on

all pulleys. If the serpentine belt is not properly aligned and seated

in each pulley, it may be damaged upon starting the engine.

 

Final Steps

Torque the power steering pulley bolts to 22 Nm (16 Ft-lbs)

Install the dust cap on the tensioner pulley.

Start the engine and make sure the belt runs true.

Re-install any lower insulation panels or skid plate.

Step 1: Belt Replacement

In order to replace the serpentine belt, the air conditioning compressor belt

must be removed. First, remove the dust cap on the air conditioning belt

tensioner.

Step 2:

Using an 8mm Allen socket and the same method used for releasing the

serpentine belt tension, swing the air conditioning belt tensioner downward

and remove the belt.

Step 3:

Carefully guide the serpentine belt around the radiator fan and out through

the top of the engine compartment.

 

Step 4:

Guide the new belt back in place. Refer to page 6 for routing.

Re-install the air conditioning belt and pulley dust cap.

Complete the pulley installation on page 12.

 

Interested in purchasing?

ECS Tuning BMW M52/M54 Performance Power Steering Pulley Installation

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Thomas’ BILSTEIN Equipped Audi B6 S4 Avant

Buying a used car can be scary for anyone. This used car story is about Thomas, a future European car enthusiast, who bought a non-running, fairly clean, and extremely rare car to make his own. At sixteen, his father allowed him to work and save to purchase a car that absolutely spoke to him. Thomas had settled on an Audi B6 S4 Avant with some missing aesthetic pieces and a blown engine to be the first car he would call his own. 

audi_b6_s4_avant_bbs

Unloading the newly purchased Avant

Thomas, however, had not chosen just any B6 S4. With careful searching and a bit of luck, he managed to find one of thirty produced Nogaro Blue exterior on Nogaro Blue interior, 6-speed Quattro Avant. An absolutely eye-catching car as is, Thomas eagerly went to work addressing everything: from the daunting task of swapping an engine, to the minutia of beauty covers, trim pieces, lights, and detailing. He completed his work under the watchful guidance of an incredibly skilled mentor, from whom he gained invaluable experience in mechanical and restorative automotive work. 

b6_audi_v8 b6_avant_v8_install

Freshly sourced motor being prepped and installed

Solving the issue of sourcing and replacing the Audi V8 turned into a much easier task than anticipated. With his mentor’s help, Thomas was able to install the new engine himself without being quagmired by excessive cost. This allowed him to focus on other aspects of the car he had decided to address. Most notably, Thomas felt that the Audi needed suspension capable of keeping up with the car. After careful consideration, Thomas decided BILSTEIN B14 Coilovers were the best choice to fit on his Audi to bring it closer to the ground and more enjoyable to drive.

The comparison between old and new is fairly drastic: notice the difference in shock/strut construction between the older suspension that was clearly not designed for the Avant. Some of these parts came from a Chevy Blazer, which explains the overall condition of the car when Thomas purchased it.

With his new BILSTEIN coilovers in hand, Thomas set to removing the extant suspension equipped to the car. Being that the car had a blown motor and was in the ‘first car’ price range, seeing less than ideal suspension components was to be expected. He removed some unnamed and poorly pieced together suspension components and replaced them with the B14’s, which ultimately support the Avant on its set of BBS RGR mesh wheels.

bilstein_installed_adjustable_perch

 

The lower and stiffer springs, which are actually designed for use in this Avant, sit right at home on their proper perches. The finished product looks incredible installed on the car!

Thanks to BILSTEIN’s unparalleled quality and performance, this Avant is now set up to ride comfortably and handle spirited driving with ease

Thomas purchased the car with BBS wheels already equipped and in fantastic condition, except the paint. He solved the paint issue  by powder-coating the wheels a muted silver and finished with brand new black and silver BBS center caps. Finishing off his immaculate daily driver are a tune and clutch from JHM to give it more power and better bite on the left-most pedal, as well as motor mounts from ECS to eliminate driveline deflection, and finally ZIZA lighting inside and outside the car to improve on the factory illumination. 

Any mechanic or automotive restoration expert would be floored by the absolute quality of work present in this build. Upon speaking with Thomas, you would be even more taken aback by his muted sense of pride behind his reserved tone, as well as in his humility and gratitude; both in his work and ownership of this rare example of a European sport-touring dream.

bbs_rgr_audiaudi_b6_avant_rgr_bbs

All in, the Avant is far from finished. Thomas already has plans for bigger wheels with a more aggressive offset, plans to go farther with the astoundingly clean V8 build, and definitely plans to enjoy his nearly brand new B6 S4 Avant for years to come. Future enthusiasts like Thomas remind us that every project is doable with enough determination, and thanks to high quality parts producers like BILSTEIN, we can all confidently approach even the messiest of situations and be rewarded with something truly unique and personal. 

thomas_b6_avant_beauty_shot

thomas_b6_avant_beauty_shot

thomas_b6_avant_beauty_shot

thomas_b6_avant_beauty_shot

thomas_b6_avant_beauty_shot

thomas_b6_avant_beauty_shot

 

Interested in Purchasing BILSTEIN Suspension or other components for your car?

BILSTEIN shocks, struts, and coilovers have been the industry preferred suspension since before the use of automobiles. Revamp the feel and enjoyability of your car with BILSTEIN suspension!

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Tyler’s B8 A4 Daily Monster

Modifying cars for many enthusiasts is not only a hobby, but a form of expression you take with you everywhere. More accurately, this form of self-expression takes you everywhere. For our friend Tyler that was exactly the purpose behind this B8 A4 build.

Tyler sat down with me at a small sandwich shop in Ohio to give me a better idea of what he wanted his Audi to be. An avid enthusiast, Tyler is not new to modifying cars. Since his DC2 Integra GSR in 2001, Tyler’s car history is filled with Subaru and Honda enthusiast vehicles. All of his builds have been heavily modified. Specifically, most of his previous cars included big turbos, extensive performance modifications, were intended for dedicated ‘spirited’ driving: both on tracks, or back roads.

Alzor 349 19×9.5 square sets on 235/40/19 tires finish off Tyler’s stance with an aggressive, yet classic look.

The Audi he most recently built tells something of a different story. A few years ago, Tyler made the switch to German performance with the purchase of an Audi B7 A4. One of two automatics he has ever owned, he enjoyed the B7 for its comfort and reliability. While he is not looking for something to put earthquake-inducing power into, an important factor in his driving experience was to be able to enjoy the car every time he drove it.

His B8 is exactly that: a beefed up, mature, and comfortable daily driver. With a new Frankenturbo, new pistons and rings from Audi, aesthetic changes like the ECS Carbon Fiber Trunk Spoiler and Engine Cover, and a few bolt-ons, Tyler took his run-of-the-mill A4 and turned it into something special. This car is an extension of his personality. He is as much an outdoor enthusiast as he is a car enthusiast, as you can see by his bike and kayak racks. The Audi checks those boxes perfectly.

“The car was supposed to be something I could drive every day. That could take me kayaking, hiking, or snowboarding. Something I could rely on year-round and still enjoy”

This idea is apparent when one hops in the rear seat and looks over to see a Recaro baby seat. Tyler and his wife are expecting shortly, and have already purchased things like the seat and VW clothing to indoctrinate their new son as quickly as possible into the way of the car enthusiast. The inclusion of his new family addition is exactly what the Audi was ready for.

While His B8 makes significant power over a stock equivalent, the car remains comfortable over bumps and is never excessively loud. Even more surprising is the traditional manual transmission equipped with the Quattro rather than the now favored automatic. The signs of an enthusiast are all there, coupled with the reliability and panache of a classy every-day utility vehicle.

ECS Carbon Fiber beauty and performance pieces accent the natural beauty of the Audi under-hood, and do more for performance than just sit pretty.

Overall, Tyler is able to drive a well equipped and comfortable Audi that is still able to satisfy his enthusiast bug without making hardly any sacrifice. Isn’t that what tuning is about?

Tyler’s B8 A4:

ECS Carbon Fiber Trunk Spoiler
ECS Luft-Technik Intake
ECS Carbon Fiber Engine Cover
Maxton Gloss Font Lip
Honeycomb Grille
Alzor 349 19×9.5 et+40 square sets on 235/40/19
Black Forest Industries Shift Knob
ECS Boost Gauge and Vent Pod
Frankenturbo Upgraded Turbo
ECS FMIC
CTS High Flow Cat
Malone Stage 3 Software
Recaro Baby Seat!
SoloWerks Coilovers
Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge Red/Blue
ECS Exhaust Swivel Tips
ECS Wheel Spacers (8mm rear)
ECS Billet Aluminum Oil Dipstick Upgrade
Mishimoto Intercooler Charge Pipes
Carista OBDII Dongle
ECS Billet Boost Tap Kit
42 Draft Designs 4-Way Oil Pressure Splitter

 

Audi B8 A4/A5 2.0T Charge Pipe/Intercooler Kit Install

Every engine craves cool air: Lots of it. In order to produce as much power as it can, cool air is what every engine needs.  From the factory, your Audi’s intake system is designed to work in perfect harmony with the rest of the stock engine operating systems, but we all know there is a lot of untapped performance potential with the 2.0T.  Whether this is your starting point, or just another addition to your list of performance upgrades, our Audi B8 A4/A5 2.0T Charge Pipe/Intercooler kits are a perfect modification.

The charge pipe kit fits with your stock intercooler and boasts mandrel bent aluminum charge pipes, smooth flowing silicone couplers, a CNC machined aluminum turbo outlet adapter, and stainless steel T-bolt clamps.

The complete kit with a high flow intercooler yields maximum performance while also adding a sleek yet menacing look through the grille.  The increased air flow and reduced turbulence of this system will boost your stock performance, and allow you to get the maximum benefit from any additional performance modifications.

Attractive and easy to install, you can have this system in place in just a few hours or less.  Whether you have purchased the charge pipe only kit or the complete kit with our ECS Tuning intercooler, you’ll have everything you need for a trouble free installation. Thank you for looking to ECS Tuning for all your performance and repair needs.  We appreciate your business!

Step 1:

Safely raise and support the vehicle

Never get underneath a vehicle that is supported only by a jack.  Always make sure that the vehicle is securely supported on jack stands or an automotive lift.

Step 2:

Remove the LF wheel.  Here we are using a wheel hanger to support the weight of the wheel when we remove the lug bolts and use of a Protecta Socket will prevent damage to the wheel finish.

Wheel hangers are especially helpful for cars that use lug bolts and they make wheel spacer installation much easier too.  The Audi A4 requires a 14mm x 1.5 thread hanger, available on the ECS Tuning website as ES2636260.

Step 3:

Remove the lower insulation panel or skid plate, whichever you have installed.

For an in depth installation guide and fastener location chart for B8 skid plates, refer to our ECS Street Shield Skid Plates, ES2771379 or ES2771912

Step 4:

Locate the plastic guard above the LH CV shaft.  Remove the two securing nuts, then pull it forward, pivot it around the CV shaft, and remove it.

Step 5:

The LF fender liner needs to come out next, and it’s held in place by a number of different fasteners.  We’ll point them all out over the next few steps.

In this step, remove the two forward screws

(1) at the edge of the fender, then using a pick remove the two clips

(2) just to the right.

Step 6:

Remove the expanding rivet that holds the fender liner to the body.  It’s located just forward of the CV shaft.  The expanding rivet will come out in two pieces, center pin first, then the rivet body.

Step 7:

Remove the two clips on the top side of the fender liner, forward of the suspension strut.

Step 8:

Finally, remove the three rearward fasteners consisting of one nut and two clips.  Now carefully pull the fender liner out from the lip of the fender, then downward, and remove it from the car.

Step 9:

On the RH (passenger) side, remove the two forward fender liner screws at the edge of the fender.  It is not necessary to remove the fender liner or the wheel on this side.

Step 10:

On both sides, reach in behind the bumper and disconnect the fog lamps (LH shown).

Step 11:

Remove the four screws along the rear edge of the lower radiator shroud.

Step 12:

Inspect the side view of the bumper cover/fender on the right.  There is a bolt on each side that secures the bumper cover to the fender.  We have overlaid the bolt in this illustration so you can visualize its location.

Step 13:

Remove the bolt on each side that secures the bumper cover to the fender (see the illustration in step 12).  On the RH side, you can access the bolt by pulling back the edge of the fender liner.

Depending on model and production date, your vehicle may have two bolts on each side that will have to be removed prior to pulling off the bumper cover.

Step 14:

Pull out on both rear edges of the bumper cover as shown to release them from the clips on the fender.

Step 15:

Remove the four upper radiator shroud screws.

Step 16:

Lift up on the rear edge of the radiator shroud, then pull it rearwards to unhook it from the grille, and remove it.

Step 17

Look down between the grille and radiator and disconnect any components that are attached to the back side of the grille.

Depending on model, you may find the following:

  • Homelink Transmitter
  • Ambient Air Temperature Sensor

Step 18:

Remove the two screws at the top corners of the grille.

Step 19:

Remove the bumper cover by pulling it straight forward.  It’s not heavy but slightly awkward.  If you’re careful you can balance it in the middle, but it’s much easier if you have a friend help you with it.

Step 20:

With the bumper cover removed, we’re ready to start on the charge pipes.  Let’s start with the turbo outlet pipe.  Loosen the hose clamps on the original turbo outlet hose at the turbo damper on one end, and the intercooler inlet on the other.  Pull the hose off and remove it.

Step 21:

Remove the three screws on the original turbo damper, and remove it from the turbo outlet. Be careful not to lose the small o-ring seal between the two.

Step 22:

Thoroughly clean the o-ring and the seal groove, then install the o-ring into the groove on the turbo outlet, using light grease to hold it in place.

Step 23:

Install the new turbo outlet adapter using the original screws.

Step 24:

Now let’s move on to the intercooler outlet and throttle body pipes on the LH side of the vehicle.  Look down in front of the ABS pump, locate the MAP sensor (on the top end of the intercooler outlet pipe) and disconnect it.

Step 25:

Pull the power steering hose out of the clip on the top end of the intercooler outlet pipe.

Step 26:

Loosen the hose clamp on each end of the original throttle body hose.

Step 27:

Pull the throttle body hose off each end and remove it from the car.

Step 28:

Loosen both hose clamps on the original intercooler outlet hose, then pull it off both ends and remove it.

Step 29:

Pull the power steering hose out of the clip on the side of the intercooler outlet pipe.

Step 30:

Remove the three mounting nuts, then remove the original intercooler outlet pipe from the car.

Step 31:

Remove the three mounting bushings from the original intercooler outlet pipe in the following manner:

  1. Slide out the metal sleeve washer from each one
  2. Pull the rubber bushings out of the intercooler pipe bracket

Each of the three bushings is a different size and only fits in its corresponding location.

Step 32:

Install the original bushings and sleeves into the new intercooler outlet pipe bracket.

Note the different size and shape of the mounting holes in the bracket.  Make sure each of the three bushings is installed in its correct location.

Step 33:

Remove the two screws, then carefully remove the MAP sensor from the original intercooler outlet pipe.

Step 34:

Install the MAP sensor into the new intercooler outlet pipe using the new screws provided with the kit.

If you have purchased the complete kit and are installing a new ECS Tuning intercooler, skip to Page 35 to install the intercooler at this time.

If you are installing the charge pipes only, continue on the next page.

Step 35:

Loosely place a hose clamp onto each end of the correct silicone coupler for the intercooler you are using (see below), then push the coupler onto the intercooler outlet.

Stock Intercooler:

Coupler: 2.5” to 2.25” Reducing, small end located on intercooler.

Clamps: 60-68mm located on intercooler side, 67-75mm located on pipe side.

ECS Intercooler:

Coupler: 2.5” Straight.

Clamps:  67-75mm on both ends.

Step 36:

Install the new intercooler outlet pipe into place, pushing it into the coupler on the bottom and over the studs on the frame.

Step 37:

Install and tighten the three nuts on the intercooler pipe bracket.

Step 38:

Tighten both the T-bolt clamps on the silicone coupler.

You may position these clamps as desired to achieve the look you want.

Step 39:

Reconnect the MAP sensor.

Step 40:

Loosely place a 67-75mm hose clamp over each end of one of the silicone hump couplers, then push it onto the top of the intercooler outlet pipe.

Step 41:

Push the straight coupler onto one end of the new throttle body pipe, then loosely place two 67-75mm clamps over the coupler.

The throttle body pipe is the same on both ends and can be installed in either direction.

Step 42:

Install the throttle body pipe into place.

Step 43:

Make sure both silicone couplers are aligned properly, then tighten all four T-bolt clamps.

You may position these clamps as desired to achieve the look you want.

Step 44:

Now, moving back to the turbo outlet pipe, loosely place a hose clamp onto each end of the correct silicone coupler for the intercooler you are using (see below), then push the coupler onto the intercooler inlet.

Step 45:

Inspect the new turbo outlet pipe and identify the ends. The turbo end has a 60 degree bend on it while the intercooler inlet has a 123 degree bend.

Step 46:

Slide the remaining hump coupler over the “turbo” end of the turbo outlet pipe, with two 67-75mm clamps loosely installed.

Step 47:

Install the new turbo outlet pipe into place, routing it over the core support brace.

Step 48:

Push the turbo outlet pipe up into the hump coupler, then tighten the clamps. make sure that the pipe does not hit the brace.

Step 49:

Tighten the two T-bolt clamps at the intercooler.

Step 50:

Reassemble the vehicle:
Reinstall the bumper cover.
Reinstall the fender liner
Reinstall the skid plate/insulation Panel
Install and torque the LF wheel to 120 Nm (89 Ft-lbs).

Your Charge Pipe installation is complete!

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N54 Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Carbon Fiber Intake Install

Installing the ECS Tuning N54 Carbon Fiber Intake System is a rewarding project than an experienced technician will be able to complete in a few hours, plan accordingly based on your experience level.  Before you begin, read and familiarize yourself with these instructions and make sure you have all of the required tools on hand.  Thank you for purchasing our ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber Intake System, we appreciate your business!

The ECS Tuning N54 Carbon Fiber Intake System offers the following features and benefits: • Fully enclosed, sealed air box and intake tubes with carbon fiber exterior and fiberglass insulated interior • Large, reusable high flow air filters • Stainless steel hardware • Broader and smoother torque curve • Easy installation, integrates seamlessly with stock intake ductwork

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver(s) Available at ecstuning.com ES2225921
  • Torx Drivers: T20 Available at ecstuning.com ES11417
  • Safety Glasses
  • Small Angled Pick or Hook Tool
  • Nut Drivers: 6mm, 8mm
  • Allen wrench: 4mm
  • 1/4” Ratchet, Extensions

INSTALLATION NOTES

  • RH refers to the passenger side of the vehicle.
  • LH refers to the driver side of the vehicle.
  • Always use the proper torque specifications.
  • If applicable to this installation, torque specifications will be listed throughout the document and at the end as well.
  • Please read all of these instructions and familiarize yourself with the complete process BEFORE you begin.

GENERAL PREPARATION AND SAFETY INFORMATION

ECS Tuning cares about your health and safety.  Please read the following safety information.  This information pertains to automotive service in general, and while it may not pertain to every job you do, please remember and share these important safety tips.

  • Park your car in a safe, well lit, level area.
  • Shut the engine off and remove the key from the ignition switch.
  • Make sure any remote start devices are properly disabled.
  • ALWAYS wear safety glasses.
  • Make sure the parking brake is applied until the vehicle is safely lifted and supported.
  • If using an automotive lift, be sure and utilize the factory specified lift points. Lifting a vehicle in an incorrect location can cause damage to the suspension/running gear.
  • When lifting a vehicle using a jack, always utilize the factory specified lift points. Lifting a vehicle in an incorrect location can cause damage to the suspension/running gear.  ALWAYS support the vehicle with jack stands.
  • Always read and follow all safety information and warnings for the equipment you are using.

REMOVING THE ORIGINAL AIRBOX

Step 1:

Remove the upper wiring harness channel cover by pulling out each of the four tabs (arrows) to release them, then lifting the cover upwards and unhooking it at the rear.

Step 2:

Pull the battery cable and corrugated wiring harness out of their retaining clips in the wiring harness channel.

Step 3:

Carefully release the three retainers for the wiring harness channel by pushing down on each retaining tab.  As you release each one, pull out slightly on the channel to prevent the tabs from locking back in place.  The inset picture shows a close up view of a retaining tab.

These tabs and the cowl panel mounts are very fragile and can be easily broken, use caution during removal.

Step 4:

Pull the wiring harness channel forward and remove it from the cowl panel.

Step 5:

The large corrugated wiring harness mounts to the cowl panel at three different locations (refer to photo on right).

Step 6:

Carefully release the three retainers for the large wiring harness by pushing down on each retaining tab.  As you release each tab, pull out on the harness to prevent the tabs from locking back in place.  The inset picture shows a close up view of a retaining tab.

These tabs are very fragile and can be easily broken, use caution during removal.

Step 7:

Remove the six self threading screws holding the cabin air filter housing to the cowl panel.

Step 8:

Gently lift up on the cabin air filter housing and remove it from the cowl panel.

Step 9:

Remove the brake master cylinder cover by sliding out the rubber seal retainer and releasing the front and rear retaining tabs.  Lift the cover up and remove it.

Step 10:

Moving to the passenger side of the vehicle, disconnect the air temperature sensor by pushing in on the connector release tab and pulling the connector off of the sensor.

Step 11:

Remove the air temperature sensor wiring harness retention clips from the cowl tabs by pulling up on them.  These clips have small “teeth” that grip the cowl tabs as they are pushed into place, if they are difficult to release by hand a small flat blade screwdriver can be used to pry them off.  Lay the harness to the side after clips have been removed.

Step 12:

Remove the passenger side cowl cover by sliding out the rubber seal retainer and releasing the front and rear retaining tabs.  Lift the cover up and remove it.

Step 13:

Slide the driver side cowl seal retainer out of the slot in the cowl panel, and remove the screw holding the cowl panel to the body of the car.

Step 14:

Slide the passenger side cowl seal retainer out of the slot in the cowl panel, remove the washer hose retaining clip from the cowl tab.  This clip has small “teeth” that grip the cowl tab as the clip is pushed into place.  Remove the screw holding the cowl panel to the body of the car.

Step 15:

Tilt the cowl panel up at the front, then lift and pull it forward to remove it from the vehicle.

There are 5 tabs that hold the cowl panel tightly to the seal at the rear of the panel.  These can be easily broken, use caution during removal.

Step 16:

Disconnect the brake booster vacuum line by squeezing the two retaining tabs together and pulling up on the line.  Pull the line out of the retaining clip on the side of the original air box.

Step 17:

Loosen the clamps holding the front and rear turbo inlet tubes to the air original box.  (front clamp shown)

Step 18:

Remove the 2 screws holding the intake air duct to the radiator core support.

Step 19:

Release the intake air duct from the tabs on the original air box, pull the intake air duct off of the original air box and remove the duct from the vehicle.

Step 20:

Pull all 3 wiring harness retainers off of the retainer bracket on the side of the original air box.

Step 21:

Remove the front and rear turbo inlet tubes from the original air box.

Step 22:

Lift up on the air box and remove it from the vehicle.  Be careful to make sure all hoses and wires are clear while removing the air box.

INSTALLING THE NEW CARBON FIBER INTAKE

Step 1:

The original air box has three rubber mounting grommets in the bottom.  Pull them out and install them into the new carbon fiber lower intake box by pushing them in until they are fully seated.

Step 2:

Position the new lower intake box so the grommets line up with the mounting studs, then evenly push it down into place until the grommets are fully seated on the studs (arrows).

Step 3:

Push the brake booster line mounting clip into place in the side of the lower intake box.

Step 4:

Reconnect the brake booster vacuum line and make sure it is secured in it’s mounting clip.

Step 5-6:

Be careful not to over tighten the hose clamps. Over tightening can crack the carbon fiber.

Install the remaining air filter onto the rear filter pipe.  Make sure it is fully seated against the lip on the inside of the filter, then tighten the clamp.  Use the picture for reference to make sure you install the filter on the correct end.

Step 7:

Insert the front filter pipe into the lower intake box, through the opening in the front of the box, and into the front turbo inlet tube.  Do not secure it at this time.

Step 8:

Insert the rear filter pipe into the lower intake box, through the opening in the rear of the box, and into the rear turbo inlet tube.

Step 9:

Install and tighten the two M6 x 20mm screws included with the kit into the front and rear filter pipe mounting ears.

Step 10:

Tighten the clamps on the front and rear turbo inlet tubes.

Step 11:

Install the new carbon fiber intake box lid, then install and tighten the two M6 x 10mm screws included with the kit.  Be sure to place one of the nylon washers on each screw.

Step 12:

Secure each of the three wiring harnesses onto the harness bracket on the side of the new carbon fiber intake box.

FINAL INSTALLATION STEPS

Use the following step by step checklist for final reassembly:

Install the front intake air duct in place then install the two screws securing it to the radiator core support.

  • Carefully install the cowl panel into place
  • On the RH side, install the cowl hold down screw, the seal retainer tab, and the washer hose clip.
  • On the LH side, install the cowl hold down screw and the seal retainer tab.
  • Install the RH cowl side cover and slide the seal retainer into the cover.
  • Install the air temperature sensor clips and connect the sensor.
  • Install the master cylinder cover and seal retainer.
  • Install the cabin filter housing and the six hold down screws.
  • Install the lower wiring harness into place on the cowl panel.
  • Install the wiring harness channel.
  • Install the upper wiring harness channel cover.

CARBON FIBER CLEANING AND CARE

ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber Intakes are clear coated for excellent finish durability and UV resistance right out of the box.

Carbon fiber can be washed with any gentle cleanser or soap.  If it is safe for the paint on your car, it will be safe for the carbon fiber.

Be extra careful not to nick or deeply scratch the clear coat on the carbon fiber.  This can lead to water intrusion into the carbon fiber which will damage the finish and the integrity of the intake.

If the clear coat does get nicked or deeply scratched to expose the carbon fiber, seal the damaged area thoroughly with a clear coat touch up or clear nail polish.

To retain UV resistance and protect the finish, we recommend regular waxing with a high quality Carnauba wax.

Small surface scratches and light oxidation can be buffed out using the same methods and cautions you would use on the vehicle paint.

Interested in purchasing?

Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake System

Let your N54 powered BMW breathe better and look sharper under the hood with the Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Carbon Fiber Intake System.
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Audi TT MK1 1.8T & VW MK4 1.8T Timing Belt Installation

As some TT owners discovered through painful experience, waiting too long to replace the timing belt can result in expensive engine repairs when a broken belt lets pistons and valves bump in the dark.

Today, we’ll replace a timing belt and water pump on a 2003 TT 1.8T 225 HP engine, code BEA. Even though our car has only 50k miles on the odometer, its original timing belt is a decade old, and many experts recommend that belt replacement intervals should be based on age as well as mileage, especially on interference engines like this one.

While the 1.8T engine design is a mainstay in many VW/Audi cars, its packaging in the TT and the tight belt fit on the sprockets creates a few challenges we’ll document here.

For First Time Installers:

If this is your first T-belt installation, you may be a little nervous about whether you have the belt properly timed. This is certainly an important consideration, especially on “interference” engines where incorrect belt timing can result in engine damage.

To take some of worry out of the process, you can add a few dabs of paint on the timing belt teeth as an added reference and safeguard.

With the engine timing marks properly aligned (see page 5), place two small dabs of paint on the old timing belt teeth on either side of the camshaft sprocket timing mark.

(We prefer using a tube of automotive touch up paint that comes with its own brush. This paint dries very quickly and does not rub off easily.)

In addition to the timing marks, add a separate arrow indicating direction of rotation.

Place a dab of paint on the small raised nub on the face of the crank sprocket and on the belt tooth next to it.

Quick Tip:

For added convenience, you can also place a single paint mark on the timing belt tooth at the top of the sprocket, and a matching mark on the raised boss on the aluminum housing behind the sprocket. That way, if the crank moves, you’ll know at a glance. (Just be sure the flywheel mark is aligned at TDC when you apply the marks!)

After removing the old belt, clip it to the new belt using large binder clips to keep the belts perfectly aligned, tooth for tooth. (Much faster and more accurate than counting teeth!)

Using the paint marks on the old belt for reference, add matching paint marks on the new belt, including the direction-of-rotation mark.

Now when you install the new belt, you can use the normal engine timing marks on the cam and flywheel and check your installation with the paint marks for a fail-safe installation.

Special Note: After the belt is timed and tensioned, bar the engine over two complete crankshaft revolutions and double check the timing marks, which should align again. It takes 720 degrees of crankshaft rotation to complete a complete engine combustion cycle. The crankshaft turns exactly twice as fast as the camshaft; 720 degrees for each 360 degrees of camshaft rotation.

DO NOT be concerned that the paint marks do not align again after two crank revolutions; they will not. Paint marks are used only for initial timing. Refer only to the cam and flywheel marks after turning the engine over by hand.

Getting Ready

Battery Disconnects and Keep Alive Memory: Most instruction sheets begin with a recommendation to disconnect the battery. This general caution is included because cranking the engine over with the timing belt removed results in immediate and costly engine damage. (Those wishing to forego this step should at least remove the keys from the ignition and hide them until the job is complete.)

Caution: Disconnecting the battery commonly erases memory in the powertrain controller and any other control module with “keep alive” memory.  If you want to keep these data in memory (emissions related OBD information, radio presets, etc.), a “memory saver” can be connected that supplies low current voltage to volatile memory. These backup power supplies do not have enough wattage to operate the starter.

Jacks and Jack Stands

Timing belt replacements require you to work both under the hood and under the car. If you have a lift, great. If not, please use a hydraulic jack large enough for the load and work on a hard, flat, stable surface. Once the car is raised to working height, please support it safely, using ANSI-approved jack stands.  Do not rely solely on the hydraulic jack. We strongly suggest that you have a buddy assist you for convenience and safety.

You’ll need some way to support the engine while the right side motor mount is removed, and some way to raise and lower the engine slightly to make wiggle room at different stages of the installation. If you choose to use a hydraulic floor jack, locate it under the engine in a spot where it cannot slip.

We’ll be using an engine support bar that straddles the engine compartment. Its threaded rods and attachment chains let you safely raise and lower either side of the powertrain from above. This tool is also useful for other repairs, including transmission removal, engine mount and clutch replacements.

This affordable engine support bar has a 1000 pound lift capacity, and can be adjusted to straddle different width engine compartments. Powder coated for durability, its padded support legs prevent paint damage. It comes apart for easy storage when not in use.

Here’s a bullet-point overview of the TT Timing Belt installation. For more detail, please see the diagrams and photos on the following pages. For those of you who have never tackled a timing belt before, we have a special section at the end showing how to use a few carefully placed paint marks as a quality control check to ensure correct T-belt timing.

Install new fasteners wherever specified, especially Torque-to-Yield bolts.

  • Remove the right beauty cover above the coolant bottle. Check antifreeze concentration.
  • Remove the top engine cover.
  • Raise the car. Remove the right front wheel.
  • Open the coolant pressure cap. Remove the belly pan. Open the drain valve at the lower radiator hose. Retighten when done.
  • Detach the coolant bottle, power steering, and charcoal canister. Pull them aside.
  • Loosen the charge pipe clamp nuts and clamps. Disconnect the pipe from the rubber air inlet. Tilt the pipe up and prop it out of the way.
  • Remove the accessory belt and belt tensioner.
  • Remove the top timing belt cover (2 snap clips).
  • Remove the lower side shield (two nuts on chassis studs on the bottom of the chassis rail).
  • Bar the engine over to TDC (flywheel mark) with camshaft mark aligned with rear timing cover mark.
  • Remove the vibration damper from the crankshaft (4 bolts)
  • Remove the lower timing belt cover (5 bolts).
  • Support the engine.
  • Unbolt the chassis engine mount and remove it.
  • Raise and lower engine as needed to remove the three engine mount-to-engine block bolts.
  • Screw the 5×55 threaded rod into the tensioner; compress the tensioner piston and remove the belt.
  • Remove the water pump (three bolts). Clean away all spilled coolant.
  • Rotate the mount clockwise into the area vacated by the water pump and remove it.
  • Remove the old tensioner (two bolts) and tensioner roller (8mm hex).
  • Install the new tensioner and tensioner roller.
  • Use the threaded rod to compress the tensioner as described on page 6.
  • Hang the new belt over the cam sprocket. Let the rear of the belt hang over the tensioner roller.
  • Reinstall the side mount on the block with one loosely installed bolt.
  • Install the new water pump. Lube the o-ring with fresh coolant.
  • Verify camshaft and flywheel timing mark alignment.
  • Install the new timing belt on the cam and crank sprockets and the water pump. All belt slack must be on tensioner side.
  • Double check timing marks again before releasing the tensioner.
  • Bar the engine over by hand two complete revolutions and check timing mark alignment.
  • Reinstall the top timing belt cover.
  • Reinstall the motor mount on the block.
  • Reinstall the lower timing cover.
  • Reinstall the balancer on the crankshaft.
  • Reinstall the accessory belt tensioner and accessory belt.
  • Raise the engine to normal height and reinstall the top chassis mount.
  • Remove the engine hanger.
  • Reinstall the remaining components: top engine cover, coolant bottle, power steering reservoir and right beauty cover.
  • Fill the cooling system.
  • Start the engine.
  • Bleed the cooling system.

Overview of the system components involved in timing belt replacement:

Bolt locations and torque specs are displayed for your convenience.

Belt installation is best performed with the help of a special tool that is described on the next page.

The TT timing belt is a tight fit on the engine and water pump sprockets. If you use the factory recommended method, however, belt removal and installation is much easier.

Remove the Old Belt Screw a 5 x 0.8 x 55mm long threaded rod into the threaded hole in the tensioner body. The head of the rod should stick up through the notch in the tensioner roller arm.

Place a washer over the stud and then thread on a 5mm nut. Tighten the nut until the roller arm compresses the tensioner far enough to let you slide the belt off the sprockets.

Install the New Belt In similar fashion, when installing the new tensioner and tensioner roller on the engine, install the threaded rod, nut, and washer.

Turn the nut again to compress the new tensioner piston until the grenade pin can be pulled out easily by hand. Pull and discard the pin.

Making sure that all timing marks are properly aligned, route the new timing belt over the camshaft sprocket, water pump, and tensioner roller.  (At this point, the belt will be too tight to install onto the sprockets.)

Continue tightening the nut on the threaded rod. Not too far. Just enough to compress the tensioner piston until the belt can be installed over the sprockets.

Installation Note:

All timing belt slack should be on the tensioner side. There should be no belt slack on the water pump side of the belt.

Installation Note:

After double checking the timing marks, remove the nut, washer, and stud. With the grenade pin removed, the tensioner piston will push outward as the nut and rod are removed, tensioning the belt. Bar the engine over by hand two complete revolutions and double check the timing marks to be sure they are properly aligned. If you are a first-time installer, check pages 18 and 19 for additional tips on belt timing.

Step 1

Under the hood, unscrew the threaded retainer (upper arrow) and remove the right side beauty cover.

To make extra room, you can also remove the front left cover, which is held in place by push pins.

Service Tip: To remove push pins, press the center pin inward to its next stop (inset photo). Then pry the main pin body from its hole.

Step 2

Check anti-freeze concentration. Do this first to save time later. We prefer a refractometer for this task, since it is more accurate than $2 floating ball testers.

If the coolant mix is 50/50 water/antifreeze, then you can top off the system later with a 50/50 mix and know the final concentration will be correct.

If the system starts with too much water or antifreeze, you’ll need to plan ahead and correct the makeup coolant concentration to end up at the optimal 50/50 ratio, or drain and refill the system.

Step 3

Remove the top engine cover.

  • Turn the two front retainer clips a quarter turn and remove them (arrows).
  • Then lift the front of the cover and slide it forward off the two retainer tabs at the rear.

Step 4

Raise the Vehicle Please support the vehicle safely and work with a buddy. Cars are heavy, and gravity never sleeps. Working without a lift? Back up your hydraulic jack with ANSI-approved jack stands.

Drain the Cooling System Open the plastic petcock at the base of the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant after loosening the coolant recovery bottle cap. This won’t drain the entire system; you’ll still get a good amount of water from the block when you remove the water pump later. Then close the drain.

Remove the Right Front Wheel Insert a hooked pulley through one of the holes in the center cap and pull straight out to remove the cap.

Remove the right front wheel.

Step 5

Remove the coolant bottle.

  • Unplug the coolant level sensor.
  • Free the two small diameter lengths of convoluted tubing from the side of the bottle.
  • Remove the two Philips head screws holding coolant bottle (arrows), and lift it up far enough to disconnect the two coolant bottle hoses (outlet and return).
  • Remove the bottle from the car.

Step 6

Suction as much power steering as possible from the fluid reservoir.

Step 7

Disconnect the rear hose from the power steering fluid reservoir.

Using a 5mm hex driver, remove the single long attachment bolt. Lift the reservoir and pull it forward with the front hose still connected. Position it out of your way.

Service Tip: Plug the rear (open) hose to prevent fluid leakage.

Step 8

Remove the nuts from the charge pipe clamp studs (arrows).

Pivot the clamp half shells upward and twist them 90 degrees to remove them.

Loosen the hose clamp at the front of charge tube and separate the rubber hose from the front of the tube.

Lift the front of the charge pipe up far enough to place a box (or similar prop) under it to keep it out of your way.

Step 9

Using a 15mm open end, pivot the accessory belt tensioner and insert a drill bit or hardened steel pin into the installation holes, as shown. (VW has a special tool for this: T10060A.)

The pin locks the tensioner in the relaxed position away from the belt.

Note: If you are reusing the old belt, mark it for direction of rotation and reinstall it the same way or risk premature belt failure.

This illustration gives you a better view of acessory belt routing and components.

Attach a 15mm open end to the raised boss on the belt adjuster. Turn the wrench in the direction shown to pivot the tensioner roller away from the accessory belt.

Service Tip: Belt tensioners do wear out. Their bearings fail and their internal tension spring weakens.

If you are installing a new belt on a high-mileage engine, it is advisable to install a new tensioner at the same time. Old tensioners commonly allow belt slippage and shorten belt life.

Step 10

After removing the belt, unbolt the accessory belt tensioner bracket and remove the tensioner from the engine.

Keep an eye on these three bolts. Note the location of the charge tube support racket.

Step 11

Pry off the spring clips (two clips at front and rear) from the upper timing belt cover and lift it off to expose the camshaft sprocket and belt.

Step 12

Inside the wheel well, remove the lower splash shield from the right side. It is held in place by two stamped nuts that screw onto chassis studs. One is visible in our photo (arrow). The other is accessible from beneath the car.

Step 13

Remove the crankshaft pulley. Use a 6mm hex head driver to remove the four bolts.

Using a 12-point 19mm wrench, bar the engine over until the timing marks on cam and crank are aligned.

Step 14

Remove the five bolts from the lower timing cover. (The fifth bolt screws through the cover into the water pump. It is out of view in this picture.)

Remove the cover and lay it aside.

If you wish to add paint marks at cam and crank sprockets, this is the time to do it. (See our First Time Installer blurb at the beginning of the article)

Step 15

Support the engine

Step 16

Unbolt and remove the top section of the left motor mount.

Step 17

Remove the top bolt holding the lower engine mount to the engine block.

Step 18

Raise and lower the engine as needed to remove the remaining two bolts holding the mount to the engine block.

Step 19

Remove the belt from the sprockets.

Step 20

Remove the three bolts from the water pump. The pump seals to the engine with an o-ring that may stick in place.

Pry at the top and bottom of the water pump to work it from its hole in the engine.

Step 21

If you want more elbow room, rotate the engine mount forward into area vacated by the pump and wiggle it out of the car.

Unbolt the tensioner roller (8mm hex driver) and the tensioner using (10mm socket or box wrench). (See fastener locations page 5.)

Clean the front of the block and bolt on the new tensioner (arrow).

Step 22

The tensioner roller ships with a short length of tubing on the bolt threads to keep the roller spacer (arrow) from falling off during shipping.

This washer must be in place when you bolt the roller to the engine to ensure correct belt alignment.

Step 23

Install the roller and torque to specs. Using the instructions on page 6 of this pdf, install the threaded rod and prepare the tensioner.

Note: If you removed it, don’t forget to slide the motor mount into position before installing the new water pump.

Step 24

Before installing the new water pump, lubricate the o-ring with clean antifreeze to make it slide into the engine more easily.

Alternately snug, then torque the pump bolts to specifications.

Installation Note: We always apply a drop or two of medium strength thread locker to the pump bolts for added peace of mind.

Step 25

Route the new timing belt into position, working it around the motor mount legs.

Using the description on page 6, install the new timing belt on all the sprockets.

Reinstall the lower timing belt cover. Apply medium thread locking compound, tightening fasteners to 10Nm.

Step 26

Raise or lower the engine to align the top engine chassis mount and the lower engine mount. Bolt them together.

Complete kits from ECS contain all bolts that should be replaced.

Step 27

Complete the installation of the underhood components and accessories removed earlier.

Step 28

Fill and bleed the cooling system. Audi recommends using a vacuum fill device similar to this one. It uses shop air and venturi vacuum to pull a partial vacuum in the system. Turning a valve on the tool connects it to a container with fresh coolant that is then sucked into the system. You can purchase our Schwaben Vacuum Bleeder Tool here, which performs this function.

If you do not have a fill tool, you’ll have to add fresh coolant at the coolant bottle, and bleed the system manually.

Set the heater to max hot, then run the engine for several minutes at high idle until the heater blows hot and the radiator cooling fan comes on.

You may need to shut the engine down and repeat this process more than once to purge all air from the system. Just remember that the system will be under pressure when hot, so don’t open the pressure cap to correct the coolant level until the system cools.

Interested in purchasing?

Audi TT MK1 and VW MK4 1.8T Timing Belt Kit

The most important major service most owners tackle at home is the Timing Belt Service. Make sure you have the proper parts and quality instructions with this kit Assembled By ECS.
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